The Sweet, Savory Seduction of Old Shanghai's Kitchens
While other regions of China were exploring the explosive power of chilies and numbing peppercorns, Shanghai was perfecting a different kind of flavor profile: a slow, rich, and slightly sweet seduction of dark soy sauce, caramelized sugar, and fragrant rice wine. This is Benbang Cai, the local cuisine of Shanghai, and it's pure comfort food, elevated to an art form.
The star of any traditional Shanghai table is the red-braised pork belly (hóngshāo ròu). Chunks of fatty pork are slowly simmered in soy sauce and sugar until they are impossibly tender, glistening a deep mahogany red, and literally melting in your mouth. You'll discover the theatrical "squirrel-shaped" mandarin fish, skillfully cut and fried before being drenched in a sweet and sour sauce. Even a simple bowl of scallion oil noodles (cōng yóu bàn miàn) can be a revelation, a testament to how much flavor can be coaxed from the humblest of ingredients.
Insider Tip:
To get a true taste of authentic, home-style Shanghai cooking, seek out a smaller, family-run restaurant in a historic neighborhood like the former French Concession. Look for a place with handwritten menus and crowded tables of elderly locals. A great entry point is to order the wài pó hóngshāo ròu—"Grandma's red-braised pork belly."
